• Repair surface – metal, plastic, fiberglass, or aluminum. Each surface requires a different type of filler.
• Depth of damage:
  – Deep dents require a coarse (fiber-reinforced) filler.
  – For uneven surfaces, it is better to choose a universal filler.
  – For finishing work, a fine filler should be selected.
•  Flexibility – especially important for plastic parts (bumpers, etc.). For such applications, a plastic filler should be used.
• Adhesion – it is important to ensure good adhesion to the specific surface. Various adhesion promoters are available.
• Sandability – the easier the filler is to sand, the smoother the final result will be. It also reduces working time.
• Quality / manufacturer – it is better to choose a reliable brand (lower risk of cracking or shrinkage).

Step 1 → Washing and cleaning the surface.
Wash off dirt, salts, wax, and silicone. We recommend using a degreaser or silicone remover.

Step 2 → Evaluation of the old coating.
If the paint is peeling or rust is visible, the previous layer must be removed down to bare metal.
If the paint is firmly adhered to the surface, it is sufficient to sand the surface only.

Step 3 → Sanding.
Grits we recommend for specific tasks:
• For rough preparation: P120–P180 (in case of rust or damage).
• For filler sanding: P180–P240.
• Before primer application: P240–P320.
• Before painting: P400–P600 (dry sanding) or P800–P1000 (wet sanding).

Step 4 → Application of filler (if necessary).
Apply in thin layers → sand until smooth → check the shape and contour.

Step 5 → Priming.
This process is necessary for protection and adhesion.
Sand the primer (P400–P600) → degrease the surface → remove dust → degrease again.
Use a designated degreasing wipe to clean the surface.

Step 6 → Masking.
Cover and mask all parts that will not be painted.

Step 7 → Painting and clear coating.

• Scope of repair – for spot repair or for painting a full panel / the entire vehicle.
• Type of clear coat:
  – 1K – for simple, small-scale jobs.
  – 2K – for a professional and long-lasting result.
• Gloss level – high gloss, semi-matte, or matte.
•  Durability – resistance to UV rays, chemicals, and scratches.
• Drying method and painting conditions – air drying or spray booth application (temperature, curing time).
• Application method – aerosol or spray gun.
•  Compatibility – with the base coat.
• Level of experience – suitable for beginners or professionals.
• Budget – more affordable options for everyday repairs, higher-end products for long-term quality.

• Surface degreasing is necessary to remove dust and silicone from the surface.

•  If it is necessary to clean the surface only from silicone or oil-based materials, choose a silicone remover.
• If salts caused by fingerprints need to be removed from the surface, choose an alcohol-based degreaser.

• Blending is a deliberate and controlled transition of color or shade onto an adjacent panel in order to achieve a visually uniform color match between the repaired and the existing surface.
•  Blending into adjacent panels is especially used for metallic, pearl, and three-coat finishes, or in situations where a full repaint of the entire panel is not necessary.
• The color is gradually faded into the adjacent panel so that no sharp transitions or visible edges remain.
• After clear coating and polishing, the transition becomes invisible.

• As the filler cures, it generates heat, which can cause condensation to form between the metal and the filler. As a result, the part may start to corrode and the filler may lose adhesion and separate from the surface.